Tag archives for mountaineering

The first night of the 22nd Piolets d’Or, Kazakh climber Denis Urubko summed it up: Mountains (and oceans) are the last wild places on Earth. We go to these places to remember we are humans in nature, to seek lessons from the wild, and to get away from the trappings of human civilization. But as humans…

Climber Matt Moniz, with his dad Mike, climbed to all the highest points in the 50 states in 43 days, a feat which made him one of our Adventurers of the Year—and our youngest honored Adventurer ever. On April 3 I’m off to Nepal to begin an expedition I’ve been dreaming about most of my…

Gripped, edges in on the 60-degree slope, and terrified beyond my wits, it slowly occurred to me that skiing Denali’s Rescue Couloir had not been the best idea in these conditions. Looking down the gullet of Rescue from just below 17,000-ft. camp, the idea of descending through the thin chute, lined with jagged shale incisors…

I took a deep breath of the thin air at 5,500 meters (18,000 feet) and scanned the beautiful scene of jagged rocks, sparkling white snow, and deep blue glacier ice around me and slowly became more comfortable in my thought that we would not reach the peak of Ausangate. This is always a hard decision…

Anyone who thinks that the climbing of Denali is a picnic is badly mistaken. –Hudson Stuck, one of the first four men to reach the summit of Denali on June 7, 1913 On June 8, a team of 14 climbers, skiers, and friends—myself included—set out from Talkeetna into the Alaska Range with the intent of…

As any mountaineer will attest, it’s a tough pill to swallow when you set your sights on a goal and prepare for months, only to be denied. I just returned from an attempt to climb Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in western Europe. Bad weather thwarted my ascent, which is a bit of a letdown.…

On this day 50 years ago, May 1, 1963, Jim Whittaker became the first American to stand atop Everest, a feat which made him a national hero. A few weeks later, May 22, Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld made the daring first ascent of the West Ridge and the first traverse of the peak, electrifying…

We often use the New Year to reflect on the year before and instill a new resolve for the year to come. For 2013, this year marks 50 years since Americans first stood atop our world’s highest peak. The climbs on Mount Everest in 1963 stand alone in climbing history and continue to inform our…

After a summer of training hard in Washington’s Cascade Range, British Columbia’s Waddington Range, and Alaska’s Chugach Range, the Expedition Denali team is poised to embark on their journey to Denali in June 2013. This film clip will give you a brief window into their training this past summer and their thoughts on the upcoming…

Adventure movie fans fortunate enough to attend 5Point or Mountainfilm festivals in 2012 got a sneak peek of an amazing film project in progress. House of Cards from Camp 4 Productions details the three-year journey of climbers Jimmy Chin, Renan Ozturk, and Conrad Anker as they make an epic first ascent of the  Shark’s Fin…

Few climbers know Nepal like Pete Athans. Beginning in 1981, the Washington-based high-altitude mountaineer has made regular pilgrimages to Mount Everest and other regions of the Himalaya. At last count he had participated in 16 expeditions to the world’s highest mountain, attempted five different routes, and personally summited seven times. Along the way, Athans learned…

What do you pack for the world’s tallest peak? Here’s what ski mountaineer Hilaree O’Neill is bringing to Everest, where she is part of our spring 2012 expedition sponsored by National Geographic and The North Face (learn more about the expedition). Though her main objective is to summit via the Southeast Ridge with her teammates,…

Photograph by Cory Richards. As seen from Lhotse, a team of climbers ascending Everest creates a spectacular line of light on the mountain ridge. WASHINGTON—Continuing his legacy of renowned ascents, famed mountaineer and The North Face athlete Conrad Anker is aiming once again for the top of the world as he leads a team of climbers…

It was a slow start to winter for resorts in the U.S. In order to find snow in the early season, for many passionate skiers, it meant getting creative. Based out of the Wasatch this season, due to drier conditions, I decided to drive north for four to Jackson, Wyoming, to poke around the Tetons…

Text and photographs by Dave Hahn, a guide for RMI Expeditions and First Ascent. In May 2010 Hahn reached the summit of Mount Everest for the 12th time, the most of any a non-Sherpa climber. This time, he is leading a Bill McGahan and his 16-year-old daughter, Sara, on a bid for the summit. Follow the…

Each day we will feature one of the 2010 Adventures of the Year here on our blog. Get to know them all in our photo gallery, then vote for your favorite for the People's Choice award—every day. You can even vote for a new favorite each day, if you can't pick just one. Photograph by Ferran Latorre The Alpinist Edurne…

We've just updated our popular America's Best Adventures feature with 50 new trips, bringing our grand total to 100 iconic escapes (see the map, state-by-state list, and photo gallery, too). So no matter what your pleasure—hiking, heli-skiing, surfing, climbing, biking, or paddling—we've got the perfect adventure for you. Check in each day for a new,…

  We've just updated our popular America's Best Adventures feature with 50 new trips, bringing our grand total to 100 iconic escapes (see the map, state-by-state list, and photo gallery, too). So no matter what your pleasure—hiking, heli-skiing, surfing, climbing, biking, or paddling—we've got the perfect adventure for you. Check in each day for a…

  We've just updated our popular America's Best Adventures feature with 50 new trips, bringing our grand total to 100 iconic escapes (see the map, state-by-state list, and photo gallery, too). So no matter what your pleasure—hiking, heli-skiing, surfing, climbing, biking, or paddling—we've got the perfect adventure for you. Check in each day for a…

This spring, Korean Oh En-Sun and Spaniard Edurne Pasabán became the first women to join the ultimate boys' club—climbing all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks. However, it wasn't long before doubts began to surface regarding whether Oh made it to the true summit of Kangchenjunga. Writer Tetsuhiko Endo tracked down Pasabán at her home in the…

On Saturday, October 17th, the Explorers Club in New York City will celebrate those individuals who have braved our planets highest peaks with "Mountain Stories,” a daylong special event featuring presentations by some of the most prominent individuals in mountaineering. The day starts at 9:00 a.m. with a continental breakfast and coffee followed by a…

It was a somber weekend for climbers the world over. First, the search for Oscar Perez on Latok II was called off due to the amount of time elapsed since last contact with the injured Spaniard. American and Spanish mountain climbers have been working in conjunction with the Pakistani air force for ten days, in an…

The weather has broken on Everest and after 12 long days of waiting, Ed Viesturs and the First Ascent team are making a move. They left base camp about fifteen hours ago and should be getting close to Camp 2 by now. “I’m a little bit nervous,” admitted Melissa Arnot, who is trying to become…

Text by Tetsuhiko Endo Alpine-style climbing is a preparation game. Gear must be checked and re-checked, camps must be made and stocked on different levels of a mountain, the body must acclimatize to altitude and the mind must steel itself against cold, fatigue and fear. No one knows this better than the men and women…

Text by Tetsuhiko Endo  Approaching a high mountain is a tricky process. It must be undertaken with great care in order to ensure that climbers will be both physically and mentally prepared when they push into the lethal 8,000-meter realm. With that in mind, the First Ascent team has split up into three separate groups…