Category archives for Surfing

Denali: A New Film About a Man, His Dog, and Saying Goodbye

If you’ve been touched by cancer or you’ve been blessed to have an animal friend in your life, you’ll want to watch Denali. As a juror at the 5Point Film Festival that awarded this film “Best of the Festival,” I can report that it was the one film the jury agreed we all wanted to share with our…

Exploring the Cold Coast: Surfing Tofino – Dispatch #7

It has been raining on and off all day, and will continue all week. Or year round for that matter. We find ourselves constantly camping in these conditions, and I’m slowly learning why. When water particles add up between camera and subject, the light diffuses into something soft and delicate. This is a contrast to…

Exploring the Cold Coast: Beach Camping and Waterfall Hunting – Dispatch #6

Less an actual measure, “island time” is more of a mentality, one where each day, encounter, and moment is approached with its own unique respect and sometimes painful contemplation. Island time allows plans to adjust, fail, and reform with a certain fleeting fluidity that’s reflected in the winter sun as it makes its brief journey across the northern…

Navigating Baja: Surrounded by Seas – Dispatch #6

What had been a slight swelling in the sea suddenly kicked up into a glassy wall of water overtaking the horizon line and cresting in white as it gained speed and proximity to the shoreline. The surfer turned with a single smooth pivot of board and body. He propelled himself with two strokes into the…

Montana by Dirt: Surfing Takes Off in a Mountain Town

Missoula river surfing pioneers explore the burgeoning sport The last place I would expect to find a surf shop is Missoula, Montana, a landlocked city on the western shoulder of the Northern Rocky Mountains. That’s just what we found when we rolled into town on day six of our Montana by Dirt road trip. The…

Hawaii: Catch Waves in Oahu

Learn to surf from the pros in a tropical paradise.   What Is It? Never surfed before? Have a lot of experience? Either way, lessons or a full-immersion surf camp on Oahu’s legendary North Shore will improve your skills in no time. Beginners: You’ll gain confidence and all the information you need to catch your…

Learning to Surf in Indonesia’s Mentawai Islands

I am a terrible surfer. Let that be stated now. Dropping into my first perfectly forming left-hand roller at Beng Beng’s, a popular surf break in Indonesia’s Mentawai Islands, I was about as terrified out of my wits as I have been in any situation. After crashing into the white wash after a mere several…

Kiteboarding in Costa Rica—Tapping into the Power of Now

You know you’re on to something good when you’re willing to travel thousands of miles for a sport, practice for days, get absolutely pummeled in the ocean, and you still want more. Welcome to kiteboarding. It’s known to be addictive—even when you face plant. I couldn’t resist trying it after witnessing the beauty and grace…

Big-Wave Surfer Carlos Burle on the Dramatic Rescue and Ride at Nazaré

Last Monday Brazilian Carlos Burle almost lost his tow partner, Maya Gabeira, then rode what many are calling the biggest wave in the history of surfing in Nazaré, Portugal. The official measurements aren’t in yet, but however the numbers fall, it is not a ride, or a day that will soon be forgotten. Almost as…

Behind the Shot: Paddling Out and Missing a Huge Wave Off Namotu Island, Fiji

See more photos like this in our Extreme Photo of the Week gallery. “I hope I get under this,” was the thought going through surfer Sean Woolnough‘s mind as he rose on this wave, named Love Shacks, off Namotu Island, Fiji. Woolnough had just paddled out for the first wave, missed it, and turned around to…