Category archives for Surfing

Beneath the Golden Gate, a Rare Break Draws (Experienced) Surfers

San Francisco may be a mecca for foodies, musicians, artists, techies, and skateboarders, but when it comes to surfing, the spots are, well, limited. And by “limited” I mean, “there’s really only consistently one that’s actually in the city, Ocean Beach.” Which is why, when the conditions are just right and the swell is hitting…

Faster, Bigger, More Extreme: A ‘Point Break’ Remake for Today’s Hard-Charging World

The 1991 release of Point Break was a perfect preface to the next decade, in which adventure sports, then called extreme sports, rose out of obscurity and gripped the mainstream consciousness in a big, bold way. Directed by Kathryn Bigelow (The Hurt Locker, Zero Dark Thirty), this campy film, now a cult classic, tells the…

Did Surfing Legend Kelly Slater Build the World’s Most Perfect Wave?

And what does it mean for surfing? As his technological feat is revealed, the surf world contemplates a game changer. A perfect, head-high, barreling wave has just been discovered. It doesn’t depend on the weather, or the swell, or even the ocean itself—and it’s always flawless. The first to surf it? Sporting icon and 11-time…

New Film Shows Lure of River Surfing

“It’s the ever-curling wave in so many ways,” says founder of Strongwater Mountain Surf Company Kevin Benhardt. The standing waves themselves, formed by rock features that sit along the riverbeds, actually do curl and break for as long as the water flows sustain them. However, it’s more about the water itself and the journey it…

Denali: A New Film About a Man, His Dog, and Saying Goodbye

If you’ve been touched by cancer or you’ve been blessed to have an animal friend in your life, you’ll want to watch Denali. As a juror at the 5Point Film Festival that awarded this film “Best of the Festival,” I can report that it was the one film the jury agreed we all wanted to share with our…

Exploring the Cold Coast: Surfing Tofino – Dispatch #7

It has been raining on and off all day, and will continue all week. Or year round for that matter. We find ourselves constantly camping in these conditions, and I’m slowly learning why. When water particles add up between camera and subject, the light diffuses into something soft and delicate. This is a contrast to…

Exploring the Cold Coast: Beach Camping and Waterfall Hunting – Dispatch #6

Less an actual measure, “island time” is more of a mentality, one where each day, encounter, and moment is approached with its own unique respect and sometimes painful contemplation. Island time allows plans to adjust, fail, and reform with a certain fleeting fluidity that’s reflected in the winter sun as it makes its brief journey across the northern…

Navigating Baja: Surrounded by Seas – Dispatch #6

What had been a slight swelling in the sea suddenly kicked up into a glassy wall of water overtaking the horizon line and cresting in white as it gained speed and proximity to the shoreline. The surfer turned with a single smooth pivot of board and body. He propelled himself with two strokes into the…

Montana by Dirt: Surfing Takes Off in a Mountain Town

Missoula river surfing pioneers explore the burgeoning sport The last place I would expect to find a surf shop is Missoula, Montana, a landlocked city on the western shoulder of the Northern Rocky Mountains. That’s just what we found when we rolled into town on day six of our Montana by Dirt road trip. The…

Hawaii: Catch Waves in Oahu

Learn to surf from the pros in a tropical paradise.   What Is It? Never surfed before? Have a lot of experience? Either way, lessons or a full-immersion surf camp on Oahu’s legendary North Shore will improve your skills in no time. Beginners: You’ll gain confidence and all the information you need to catch your…