Khumbu-near-lobuche
On the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier near Lobuche

Text by Dave Hahn, a guide for RMI Expeditions and First Ascent. In May 2010 Hahn reached the summit of Mount Everest for the 12th time, the most of any a non-Sherpa climber. This time, he is leading a Bill McGahan and his 16-year-old daughter, Sara, on a bid for the summit. Follow the team's Everest expedition in dispatches here.

More Everest: See more Everest photos, take our Everest quiz, or watch expedition videos.

Dispatch 5: Everest Base Camp

Hello from Mount Everest Base Camp. We've been up at 17,500 feet for two nights already and it is beginning to feel like home.

We had high hopes for continuous communication possibilities this year, since we were hearing so much about the 3G cell service at Base Camp… but the reality is that we are still mostly on a dirt road version of the information super-highway. We didn't have much access to cell or web services when we trekked from Pheriche to Lobuche in new snow under overcast skies.

Leaving-pheriche
Leaving Pheriche in new snow


Things were cold in Lobuche, but not unpleasant as we passed the evening hours playing games in the dining room of the Eco Hotel. We stretched our legs some with a hike along the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. Bill and Sara got good at identifying the dozen or so Himalayan giants piercing the horizon around us. In the afternoon of our Lobuche rest day, we were excited to visit with Linden Mallory and his team of trekkers and climbers. They'd already spent a few nights at Everest Base Camp and were excitedly bound for Island Peak. Bill and Sara have climbed several times in the past with Linden and were naturally happy to see him again. When he completes his Island Peak climb and trek he'll make his way back up to Everest Base to join our team at about the point when we are getting into the Khumbu Icefall.

Hiking-lobuche
Hiking to Lobuche

Two days ago, myself, Lam Babu,and Bill and Sara marched out of 16,000-foot Lobuche and took just four easy hours to reach Base Camp at 17,500 feet. It was wonderful then to meet our Sherpa team and to reunite with Jeff Martin, who'd sprinted ahead to help get the camp set up. Camp is indeed set up and we were amazed at the hard work the Sherpa staff had accomplished in chopping out level tent-sites and rolling boulders around to carve out a camp on this rough section of glacier.

Yaks

Now we've made the transition from tea-houses to tents… but it hasn't been that tough a transition. We are eating quite well now since Kumar, our chef of the past several RMI Everest expeditions, is back in the driver's seat and cranking out excellent meals.

Sunset-nuptse
Sunset on Nuptse as seen from Lobuche

These first few days are purposely light on activity so that our bodies can catch up to the altitude, but we don't seem to be having a lot of trouble that way. It is nice now for each of us to be in our own tents and to be able to sort our climbing gear and clothing without moving to someplace new each day. New tents are popping up all around us as other teams get close to Base Camp. As expected, we were one of the first climbing teams to make it in for the season. We've already gotten to chat with the doctors of the "Everest ER" the clinic set up by the HRA about two camps away from us.

Later today we'll walk a little with our ice axes in hand, just for some light exercise, and tomorrow we are looking forward to our Puja ceremony… asking the blessing of the gods before we put ourselves at risk on this giant mountain.

The cell service may not be robust at Base Camp (it seems to be mostly a 9 to 5 kind of thing, due to a reliance on solar power, we suspect), but the glaciers are still functioning pretty efficiently up here. We are getting used to the sound of big ice avalanches on the steep faces around camp. Snow conditions seem much the way I've come to expect them in the past few years… it looks like it has been quite dry again in these high mountains.

The Khumbu glacier in the vicinity of Base Camp has just been melting steadily throughout the year, without much surface replenishment… although it is relatively cold now, there is already some water flowing in the streams. The word is that the Icefall Doctors have already pushed the climbing route close to the Camp I area, which is good news… we can't tell too much about the Icefall from looking up at it… it looks just as mean and ridiculous as ever, but it is nice to know that a path has been found through it once again.

Comments

  1. Jeff Heimbuch
    April 11, 2011, 10:31 am

    Just stumbled upon these blog posts…great stuff! I am looking forward to reading more about your adventure up the mountain! Good luck!!

  2. vibram five fingers
    April 13, 2011, 6:18 am

    We are getting used to the sound of big ice avalanches on the steep faces around camp.

  3. Rikk Taft
    April 19, 2011, 9:25 am

    This is awesome I can’t wait to read your next post. Enjoy the time on the mountain. Form a dreamers stand point this is just amazing.

  4. Erric
    April 26, 2011, 2:13 am

    the cattle looks handsome!!!!

  5. Kate Williams
    May 4, 2011, 1:50 pm

    WOW I sat atop Snowmass and looked all around at the glorious mountains thanks for the reminder! the picture is gorgeous! Kate
    Come view our large selection of Jeep Bumpers at Morris 4×4 Center, from quality manufacturers such as Body Armor, Fab Fours, Or-Fab, Warn, Warrior, Bestop, Rugged Ridge, Kentrol, ProComp and more. All at unbeatable, low, discount prices.

  6. V magazine
    May 31, 2011, 7:37 am

    Purchase Digital editions of Magazines free for iPads, iPhones, Android Tablets, MAC and PCs at other Edition Newsstand. Digital Magazines

  7. longchamp
    July 21, 2011, 10:54 pm

    beautiful but dangerous travelling
    looking for see more

  8. online business degree
    October 23, 2011, 2:30 am

    This is one thing that I have never been able to do in my life, go somewhere where it is really cold for hiking. Although this sounds like the perfect getaway for me because I love doing stuff that I have not done in my life plus I like cold weather sometimes, but not all the time so I think this might be okay for me.

  9. sams-club-credit-card
    October 25, 2011, 9:11 am

    God, the view is spectacular during sunset.

  10. Ruby @ Science Camp
    January 14, 2012, 3:37 am

    Wow! The view is spectacular! It must have been amazing to be there.

  11. cheapest car insurance in florida
    January 22, 2012, 6:56 am

    Thanks for sharing your article. I really enjoyed it. I put a link to my site to here so other people can read it. My readers have about the same interets

  12. cheap car insurance in michigan
    January 22, 2012, 8:03 am

    I’ve come to expect them in the past few years… it looks like it has been quite dry again in these high mountains.

  13. Web Directory
    January 26, 2012, 9:26 am

    This time, he is leading a Bill McGahan and his 16-year-old daughter, Sara, on a bid for the summit. Follow the team’s Everest expedition in dispatches here.

  14. Land for sale UK
    January 28, 2012, 3:10 pm

    Printing and publishing has its own importance in any industry. Getting ink for printers is not mater but the real thing is purchase and lowest prices in UK or any other part of the world.

  15. maxburn
    February 9, 2012, 3:26 am

    When he completes his Island Peak climb and trek he’ll make his way back up to Everest Base to join our team at about the point when we are getting into the Khumbu Icefall.

  16. tapetes promocionales
    February 10, 2012, 4:32 am

    This is a fantastic website and I can not recommend you guys enough. Full of useful resource and great layout very easy on the eyes. Please do keep up this great work.

  17. cash advance 1 hour
    February 12, 2012, 2:29 am

    I wanted to ask which website platform you are using for this website? I’m getting sick and tired of Word press because I’ve had issues with hackers.

  18. Land For Sale
    February 14, 2012, 10:46 am

    Thank you for this informative post, I am glad I found this article via Google. Hope there will be new evets in the future..

  19. debt consolidation
    February 15, 2012, 9:23 am

    The best person to give you medical advice about liver disease is your doctor. Best thing we can do is recommend perhaps a good doctor if you need a second or third opinion.

  20. aprendizaje del ingles en niños
    February 19, 2012, 6:39 am

    We have been experiementing first with Dokeos and now Chamilo. Every thing looked good except one which is creating a new database for every course.

  21. serta icomfort
    February 21, 2012, 10:52 am

    It is the most amazing article ever read on this earth. Guess what!!! Today for the first time I read your article and in one shot I liked your article and the way you write.

  22. vinyl loop mats
    February 23, 2012, 2:26 am

    Earlier this year, we spoke with Yahoo’s Anna Robertson, head of Yahoo Studios, about plans to expand original programming. We have republished that inteview today.

  23. jeux de casino en ligne
    February 25, 2012, 1:27 pm

    The whole film feels a bit noir in terms of tone, but the blaring effects don’t allow for much introspection overall.

  24. Hai
    February 25, 2012, 2:30 pm
  25. hcg drops reviews
    February 26, 2012, 7:36 am

    Things were cold in Lobuche, but not unpleasant as we passed the evening hours playing games in the dining room of the Eco Hotel.