Rafters Get Last Look at the Great Bend of the Yangtze
Text by Rivers in Demand teammate Kyle Dickman
A year from now, it will be impossible to repeat the eight-day rafting trip we just completed down the Great Bend of the Yangtze. This 120-mile section of the Yangtze, like many of China’s rivers, will be dammed in 2009. It was amazing to experience this world-class stretch of whitewater before it changes forever.
Led by Travis Winn, the group, which included 28 international scientists, conservations, and river enthusiasts, spent the first three days rafting dozens of big-water rapids in desert scenery and notched limestone canyons. Lessons from geologists Pete Winn and Leif Karlstom helped explain the formation of the river’s great bend and how massive reservoirs would impact the region’s geology (even manmade earthquakes are a possibility).
After the river wrapped from north to south, we spent a night in the 1300-year-old Naxi village of Bao Shan. Here Naxi scholar He Xiaxun explained the river’s cultural significance for her people. It is the cradle of Naxi civilization.
Below Bao Shan, we paddled through more stunning scenery to the Ahai dam site. We moved from a pastoral landscape of goat herders and terraced wheat fields to a dust-filled canyon echoing with the sounds of 10,000 workers and a concrete factory.
Toward the end of the trip, we spent a nervous night above the section’s largest rapid, Wall Banger. At this point, the Yangtze rolls over a massive hole before bouncing against a wall and seething downstream. Even though the most experienced oarsmen dropped two oars and broke one, we watched the less experienced boaters clean the rapid with huge smiles.
The following day, our group stood beside a bridge and watched the Yangtze flow east. We could be the last group to paddle this section of whitewater before it is dammed in 2009, but we hope that by documenting this world-class river, we can help keep other rivers in China free-flowing.
Now, the Epicocity crew is gearing up for their last leg of the Rivers in Demand expedition in China. It will be a trip to the Salween River and a chance to log another significant descent in a Tibetan prefecture. Stay tuned at riversindemand.com.
Read previous stories about this expedition >>
Photographs by Adam Mills Elliott
Go Further
Animals
- Octopuses have a lot of secrets. Can you guess 8 of them?
- Animals
- Feature
Octopuses have a lot of secrets. Can you guess 8 of them? - This biologist and her rescue dog help protect bears in the AndesThis biologist and her rescue dog help protect bears in the Andes
- An octopus invited this writer into her tank—and her secret worldAn octopus invited this writer into her tank—and her secret world
- Peace-loving bonobos are more aggressive than we thoughtPeace-loving bonobos are more aggressive than we thought
Environment
- Listen to 30 years of climate change transformed into haunting musicListen to 30 years of climate change transformed into haunting music
- This ancient society tried to stop El Niño—with child sacrificeThis ancient society tried to stop El Niño—with child sacrifice
- U.S. plans to clean its drinking water. What does that mean?U.S. plans to clean its drinking water. What does that mean?
- Food systems: supporting the triangle of food security, Video Story
- Paid Content
Food systems: supporting the triangle of food security - Will we ever solve the mystery of the Mima mounds?Will we ever solve the mystery of the Mima mounds?
History & Culture
- Strange clues in a Maya temple reveal a fiery political dramaStrange clues in a Maya temple reveal a fiery political drama
- How technology is revealing secrets in these ancient scrollsHow technology is revealing secrets in these ancient scrolls
- Pilgrimages aren’t just spiritual anymore. They’re a workout.Pilgrimages aren’t just spiritual anymore. They’re a workout.
- This ancient society tried to stop El Niño—with child sacrificeThis ancient society tried to stop El Niño—with child sacrifice
- This ancient cure was just revived in a lab. Does it work?This ancient cure was just revived in a lab. Does it work?
Science
- The unexpected health benefits of Ozempic and MounjaroThe unexpected health benefits of Ozempic and Mounjaro
- Do you have an inner monologue? Here’s what it reveals about you.Do you have an inner monologue? Here’s what it reveals about you.
- Jupiter’s volcanic moon Io has been erupting for billions of yearsJupiter’s volcanic moon Io has been erupting for billions of years
- This 80-foot-long sea monster was the killer whale of its timeThis 80-foot-long sea monster was the killer whale of its time
Travel
- How nanobreweries are shaking up Portland's beer sceneHow nanobreweries are shaking up Portland's beer scene
- How to plan an epic summer trip to a national parkHow to plan an epic summer trip to a national park
- This town is the Alps' first European Capital of CultureThis town is the Alps' first European Capital of Culture
- This royal city lies in the shadow of Kuala LumpurThis royal city lies in the shadow of Kuala Lumpur